Bladesmithing
Each knife begins as a sketch and a piece of steel. It is roughly cut out and its shape is more defined on the grinder. Then it’s off to the propane forge to heat the steel up to 1600 degrees. Working on the anvil and using various hammers, the steel is shaped into a blade, textured, and stamped with the Hammer & Tine touchmark.
During the forging process the steel becomes brittle so it needs to be annealed to soften it and relieve stress. This softening of the metal allows it to be further shaped and beveled on the grinder using coarse grit belts. Once this is done, the metal needs to be heat treated to strengthen the blade. Using a kiln, the blades are heated to the critical temperature (which varies depending on the metal used), then quenched (cooled rapidly) which changes the microstructure of the metal, hardening it. At this point, the blade needs to be softened by tempering just enough so that it is no longer brittle, but not so much that the strength is compromised. The blades then go back to the grinder to be smoothed and polished. The finishing touch is careful hand sanding with very fine sand paper.
Handle Stabilization
Traditionally pine and other soft woods are seldom used for tool handles, however when stabilized, they can be used with very pleasing results. The beetle kill pine, for example, with its striking coloration, makes a perfect candidate for handle material. We also use aspen, maple, juniper, mulberry, cottonwood, to name a few.
Pieces of wood are selectively cut to best show the wood’s grain pattern and coloration. All the wood we use for handles is cut into blocks which are then placed into a vacuum chamber along with a heat curing resin and the air is pumped out allowing the resin to penetrate deep into the wood. After the wood pieces are fully saturated they are placed in an oven to cure. Following the curing, any excess resin is sanded off and the handle blanks are ready to be fitted to the blade.
Handle Assembly
Metal for the guard or bolster is chosen and fitted to the blade. Antler, various metals, leather spacers, and stabilized wood are selected for the handle. Everything is fitted to the blade then adhered to the knife tang with high strength epoxy.
When fully cured, the handle is shaped using the grinder, files, and lots of hand sanding. The wood is soaked in linseed oil, then rubbed with wax and hand buffed. Lastly the blade is sharpened leaving the knife ready to be put to work. For the Field Knives, a leather sheath is stamped, dyed, and sewn, then wet formed to each individual knife for a custom fit, great for carrying your knife and protecting it when not in use.